Category Archives: Recipes

Let’s talk Salt

Some Salts Sweetly Sitting Strongly Sending Savory Suggestions
Some Salts Sweetly Sitting Strongly Sending Savory Suggestions

Most folks are clueless about salt. I mean this with no disrespect, but I have found it to be true. Salt is not your enemy, nor is it bad for you. It is only a problem when you are eating too much processed foods or if you have a specific medical condition. Even then, talk to your doctors, but I bet if you eliminated processed foods you could actually salt your food with real salt.

“Salt was to the ancient Hebrews, and still is to modern Jews, the symbol of the eternal nature of God’s covenant with Israel. In the Torah, the Book of Numbers, is written, “It is a covenant of salt forever, before the Lord…” On Friday nights Jews dip the Sabbath bread in salt. In Judaism, bread is a symbol of food, which is a gift from God, and dipping the bread in salt preserves it—keeps the agreement between God and his people. Loyalty and friendship are sealed with salt because its essence does not change. Even dissolved into liquid salt can be evaporated back into square crystals. In both Islam and Judaism, salt seals a bargain because it is immutable.”
~©Mark Kurlansky, Salt: A World History

If you really want to know more about Salt, beyond what I am sharing here, please read Mark Kurlansky’s book Salt: A World History. If you can, please order directly from his website or your local bookstore.

I no longer use soy sauces of any kind, even gluten-free tamari has left my cooking. I tried the coconut aminos, and occasionally when I am doing something with a particularly Japanese, Korean, or Chinese kind of flavor and I feel it absolutely needs that kind of taste I will use those instead. Some folks really hate all the soy alternatives and need that flavor. If you are mostly cooking from that part of the world, you may need to use soy based products, but I prefer not to at this point.

Just say YES to SALT

So, let’s talk salt. I usually have on hand at least five or six different salts, as you can see from this picture above. I am always on the lookout for different salts and will tell friends when traveling, “if you want to bring me something back, I am always in the mood for salt.” One friend while traveling in the Himalayas returned with a purple rock and reverentially handed it to me. “I said what is it?” He said take a lick, and I did and sure enough it was a sulphur flavored salt slab. This is the purple salt in the picture sitting on one of my brother Paul Barchilon’s coasters.  The green and large pink rock salts are also on dishes of his.

Sometimes, when I want to engage folks with their taste buds and they are up for it, I give them the Himalayan purple slab and tell them to take a taste. Most folks are not happy with this particular salt’s flavor, but I love the intense mineral taste that brings me to the stark and high-peaked mountains. One lick and I am standing above it all, yet grounded right here in my body.

Nicole’s Salt Rules:
(Salt does RULE!)

  1. You don’t need a lot of salt to make things taste good.
  2. Experiment with different salts and combining or pairing them with what you are cooking.
  3. If you cannot afford a wide array of fancy expensive salts, and most folks cannot or wouldn’t dream of spending a lot of money on salt, you can get away with just having kosher salt flakes. Kosher Salt flakes are cheaper than any other salts and stand far above almost any other salts that the average person buys. Rock Salt can be found cheaply now as well. Also Real Salt, from Utah, if you are in the U.S.A. or bulk pink Himalayan Salts are not that expensive.
  4. Salt your food at the very end, not while you are cooking. This is almost always the case, but sometimes I salt mushrooms or soups close to the end of what I am doing. I also salt meat, chicken or fish before cooking them or have the salt in the marinade, but not during.
  5. Salt changes things, it is a chemical, it is powerful, it shifts the flavors, either enhancing them or transforming them. A little can go a long way, if you do it right.
  6. If you are cooking fish it is a good idea to soak it for at least 1/2 hour in a large stainless steel or glass bowl (NEVER PLASTIC) with about 1/2 cup or so of kosher salt flakes. When you do this, you will see a scummy layer of stuff that is in the water. Salt purifies and removes toxins. It is not a guarantee that you are getting all the nasty chemicals in our oceans and rivers out of your fish, but it helps. Rinse the fish off and then marinate or cook. You do not need to salt your fish too much.
  7. Brine, Brine, Brine your poultry. If you cook chicken or turkey and you don’t brine it, you are missing out. There is a world of difference. There are many different brining recipes, but I stay pretty simple with mine. I use about a cup of kosher salt, a half-cup of brown sugar, lots of fresh ground black pepper, some red pepper too and whatever herbs I’m in the mood for, tarragon, oregano etc… I combine the salt, sugar and herbs in a large one quart glass mason jar and pour boiling water over it and let it sit and shake it up so it all combines nicely. I then pour this into a large brining tub/bucket that I use only for this purpose. This bucket is filled 2/3 way up with cold water and the brine. I then put in a whole chicken or two and stick it in my fridge. It does take up space. You can also do this in a cooler with ice if you don’t have room in your fridge. You can use a stainless steel large soup pot as well. Please always clean all your surfaces when handling raw chicken. I always do this in a clean kitchen and use a natural cleanser on every surface the chicken touched or I touched, including faucets, sink and counters. I recommend leaving the chicken in the brine for at least 24 hours, but I’ve gone 48. When you remove the chicken to cook it, repeat the cleaning steps. You’ll have to go to one of my chicken recipes to get suggestions on cooking. But you can just remove the chicken from the brine, and pat it dry or let it air dry in the baking dish you will be cooking it in. Contact me if you have questions about this and I will clarify.
  8. Some folks say that if you use metal and salt together you eliminate the benefit of using a better quality salt. This is complicated and I am not going to address it in full here. I do tend to salt my food in the dish I am serving it in and have taken to stirring or tossing the food when I can with a wooden serving utensil. I always use my fingers to distribute salt, since they are better indicators of how much I want than any spoon or measuring device. I keep salt shakers on my table for those who don’t want to do that, but I also always have several small bowls with different salts on the table, for those like me, who prefer their fingers. Remember commandment # 6 from The Ten Commandments of Nicole’s Kitchen.

©Nicole Barchilon Frank

Esti’s Parsley, Garlic, Lemon, Jalapeno Supremely Special Sauce

Parsley ready for Esti's sauce, washed and dry
Parsley ready for Esti’s sauce, washed and dry

This recipe was given to me by an elderly Israeli woman who I used to visit and help. She was an amazing woman and this sauce, while slightly adapted from her original (I like mine spicier) is in memory of her. I should also warn you, this stuff is addictive and some of my friends just eat it by the spoonful.

The tops only of 1–3 bunches fresh parley, Italian flat preferred, washed very thoroughly, the bucket method (putting all the parsley in a large bowl or bucket of water, soaking it, then draining and doing this two more times over ½ hour to an hour). Then dry or drain so the parsley is not too wet. You can do this the day before and keep the parsley that has been washed in a cloth bag or dish towel in your fridge.

One whole bulb of peeled cloves of garlic per 2 bunches of parsley (2:1 ratio, 2 bunches of parsley to 1 whole bulb of garlic). The garlic must have the centers removed from each clove, this takes about 20 minutes to a ½ hour depending on your technique. Do not make this recipe or any recipe using raw garlic without removing the darker colored centers of each clove of garlic. The only exception to this rule is if you are using very fresh garlic that is young, it won’t have had time to spoil in the center. Also, if you are baking garlic you can avoid this step, but for any raw garlic dish, not doing this will make your recipe harsh, and bitter and will upset stomachs as well.

Better Garlic

One to two whole bulbs of garlic, not cloves, but bulbs, the whole bulb times two. This garlic MUST be prepared as described and shown or else the sauce will not be good. See the Ten Commandments of Nicole’s Kitchen (in reference to following my directions, refer to commandment #1).

Juice of 1– 2 lemons per bunch of parsley

1–5 fresh green whole jalapeños or serranos (just cut off the very tops)

1/4 cup -1/2 cup or more of virgin olive oil

Salt to taste (at least 1/2 tsp or more of good salt, please see upcoming posting “Let’s talk Salt”

Combine all of these ingredients in the blender and blend away. This sauce is to die for. Put it on everything and anything, bread, fish, meat, tofu, veggies. Don’t cook this sauce though or use it as a marinade. It is best cold and will keep for about 5 days in the fridge. You can use fewer peppers if you want less spice, or more if that’s your desire.

from Divine Delights, Persian, French & Sephardic Savors from the Kitchen of
© Nicole Barchilon Frank

Hoummous ~ Hummus ~ Who?Moose

Hummus served right, in a beautiful Moroccan bowl, with Henry's Olive Oil, paprika and chopped parsley from my garden. The plate underneath the bowl was made by my brother Paul Barchilon
Hummus served right, in a beautiful Moroccan bowl, with Henry’s Olive Oil, paprika and chopped parsley from my garden. The plate underneath the bowl was made by my brother Paul Barchilon
  1. two cans (16 oz) of drained organic garbanzo beans (Westbrae Organic is my preference) when you aren’t soaking and making fresh beans, which is always better, but the Westbrae brand is very good.
  2. juice of 4–6 lemons depending on the juiciness/size of the lemons
  3. many cloves of fresh garlic, half to a full bulb’s worth with the centers of each clove removed. (see picture at end of recipe)
  4. ¼ cup or more of organic tahini (roasted or raw)
  5. ¼ – ½ cup of water to make the blender deal with all this (I went through a blender a year until I got a Vitamix, guaranteed for life and so far six years without a problem)
  6. ¼ cup or so of organic olive oil
  7. salt and pepper to taste
  8. chopped parsley
  9. paprika for color on top
  10. Za’atar if you can find it (Israeli herb mixture, try ordering on-line or ask everyone going to Israel to bring you some home)

The trick here is lots of lemon and garlic, if you use less than I recommend it won’t taste as good!

If you have the time, soak some organic chickpeas overnight, then boil for an hour and use those instead. If you don’t, it’s fine to use the canned ones. Rinse them thoroughly to get off the canned juice goo they come in. Blend all beans, garlic, lemon juice, tahini, water and ¼ cup olive oil, salt and pepper together in the blender. Start on your lower setting and build up. You don’t want your hummus too liquid and I like mine very blended. Taste and adjust, adding more lemon, salt, garlic, etc…

Discard, Dont Use!Pour out into a bowl for serving and then liberally douse with paprika, cover the entire surface with it, then drizzle olive oil over that and sprinkle freshly and finely chopped parsley or the Za’atar all over it. Serve with dinner, lunch, bread, and crackers or make sandwiches with artichoke hearts, tomato, lettuce, Dijon mustard and hummous, on French bread is best. (This is one of my favorite sandwiches.) This Who?Moose will keep for a week in a glass container.

Keep and Use
This recipe is in my cookbook, Divine Delights, Sephardic, French & Persian Foods ©2012 by Nicole Barchilon Frank, which is being updated and will be available for purchase here on this website in the not too distant future.